(EDIT: Got distracted, didn't finish a thought about electric rates and total costs. Fixed it!)submitted by MinisterEveryday to rav4club [link] [comments]
(EDIT 2: BIG wow on the gold! Thank you, kind redditors!)
(EDIT 3: Don't edit on mobile, you'll break your post. Just logged back onto my computer to fix it.)
(EDIT 4: Thanks for all the support, folks. I've edited my awful data representation because I added new data, and I'm adding to the Fuel Economy and "Why on earth..." sections with some stuff I've learned.)
(EDIT 5: This guy does a great job talking about suggested maintenance and what not to do with a Prius/RAV4 Prime. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND WATCHING THIS. He talks about a lot of good things like actually using the ICE, good charging habits [which are also in the Prime's manual], tires, proper use of charge mode, etc, and there's some good discourse in the comment section about battery health.)
(EDIT 6: I swear, the amount of edits I'm doing will be as long as the original post soon. Maybe I'll make a resources section. Anyway, this guy did what I wanted to do to test the fuel system. I say watch the whole video, but I've linked to the end where he goes through the numbers. He drove in HV mode (with a full battery backup) with the car telling him to refuel, implying it was nearly out of gas. He drove for about 70-80 miles, and when he filled up he still had just over a gallon of gas left in the tank. This lines up with my experience of the one visit to a gas station. This car is insane.)
Howdy all! I'm new to the club, and this will be long.
On July 31 (a day before his birthday), I retired my grandfather's 1999 Ford Explorer (RIP, 3/6/99-7/31/20) after driving it for 5 years after his passing, and traded it in for a shiny new 2021 RAV4 Prime SE. In this thread I'll talk about my buying experience (context: USA, East Coast), present a little bit of data I had collected, and the only glaring issue I have with this car. I've driven over 1000 miles already (had to drive for a work trip, which was a great way to refine the HV fuel economy).
Feel free to ask questions, and I'll answer as best I can! I'm not gonna talk too much about the specs and overly technical stuff, because plenty of great videos exist that explain it better than I could. I want to bring this a little more down to earth for us normal folks and our normal people concerns.
Disclaimer: My only experience driving a "new" car was in 2017, doing a short drive in my mom's new Jeep. I have a sense of awe and wonder at some of the features modern cars have, because I haven't had them. Also, many people in my family have had Toyotas over the years (many RAV4s both ICE and Hybrids, some Corollas, an early Highlander Hybrid come to mind), so I knew I was pretty partial going into this ordeal.
Most of the pictures I've used to collect my data can be found in this Imgur album (which I made before making a proper Imgur account, so I can't edit it. Sigh.)
Buying ExperienceThe dealership I bought from had one (1) SE delivered earlier than planned. Another dealership in the area also only had one (1) SE, but with different upgrade packages. There was less than $1.5k difference between the models (IIRC). The one I bought included weather and moonroof package, all-weather floor liners (good because winter), roof rack crossbars (not necessary, but always nice to have), frameless homelink mirror (basically buttons for garage door openers on a snazzy mirror), and the protection package (includes edge guards on doors, mudguards on the fenders, etc).
The dealership experience was mostly good. The staff was courteous and friendly, and even the finance officer was honest and blunt with me about stuff I could get cheaper elsewhere, or stuff I could sign up for later if I want it. The big downside came with the rarity of the car: There was very little negotiation available in any aspect, and the dealership included an "Adjusted market price" increase of $5000.
Yes, you read that correctly. According to them (and I had also heard of this through a few sources), many other dealerships had a much higher markup which would put an SE with comparable upgrade packages over $50k before any taxes/fees. With limited availability, I didn't really have a choice. I tried to play the game, but the three different people I talked to at the dealership (salesman, manager, and finance) basically all said "yeah, no." It was pretty frustrating when they were like "what can we do to make this sale for you?" and I replied at least three times "you can make the price what was on your website, for a start." (The website showed the MSRP, plus upgrade packages, with a line through it. When you clicked on the button to get a deal/more details, it said that you already had the best price. They claimed it was bad website design, I told them straight up it was a nice case of false advertising and they should get their act together.)
I used my trade-in value (not much, but I was able to negotiate it up a bit) toward an extended warranty (jumps from 3-year to 10-year, I think, which I felt was worth it given how much driving I do), and put down a healthy down payment with reasonable financing through a local credit union to cover the rest. I know that the situation will change once I receive the tax rebates (The Prime qualifies for the full $7500 federal rebate, and my state offers a $1000 rebate).
Am I a fool for going through with this ordeal? From most points of view, absolutely. But when you drive a 21-year old car and have to fill it up 2-3 times per week (pre-COVID) at the tune of $40-50 per fill up, it's time for change.
But I mean, she's so pretty.
The actual email I got from the dealership. It here, indeed.
And there she is, safely at home.
Features I likeI didn't know you could have heated seats that aren't leather or leather alternative. I've also never heard of a car having rear heated seats. Color me surprised when I found out that it's got it all! The weather package also included a heated steering wheel, which is great because I don't mind bundling up for the cold, but my fingers typically are colder than the rest of my body.
I'm a musician, specifically a bass player, and if there's one thing I'll splurge on it's good sound. Because I got the SE, I didn't have the option of upgrading the audio system. Honestly: I didn't need to. The stock system sounds great to me, and I don't think the extra inch on the infotainment display would make a huge difference.
Also, the big reason that this vehicle stood out to me is because there aren't a ton of options for hybrid/PHEV SUVs that get good mileage. I need the cargo area to haul music equipment from time-to-time
The ability to switch between Normal, Eco, Sport, and Trail modes satisfies my need to control the AWD of the car. My Explorer let me choose between 2WD and 4WD. Before the Explorer, I drove a Mitsubishi Montero which let you choose 2WD, 4WDH, 4WDL, and 4WDL with locked center differential, and that car had literally saved my skin in some nasty winter weather, as well as some infrequent off-road usage. Obviously this is different than that, but the absolute shift in the feeling of driving in the different modes is awesome (Note: I haven't needed to use Trail mode yet, and I'm not doing that on a paved road). I've only used Sport mode a few times while driving on the interstate back from work, and I absolutely love it.
I primarily use Eco mode (the whole point of me getting this car was to save money on gas). Sport mode, to me anyway, is just for fun. With those two options, normal mode is just kind of "whatever" and I'll probably never use it. If I have a need to use Trail mode, I'll update the post.
I was literally ecstatic when I saw a traditional style shifter in here, and not just a twist knob to go between gears. Also, having the manual shifting option is always a huge plus to force yourself into lower gears during winter weather.
Ignore the AM radio stations listed, I've just had that piece of paper forever.
Things I Wish Were DifferentThe 6.6kW onboard charger as a standard (only available as an upgrade option on the XSE), and Level 3 charging capabilities (DC fast charging). The SE is limited to a 3.3kW onboard charger. The Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV has all 3 levels of charging for a base price comparable to the SE (yes, I know it gets less EV miles). I get that this is Toyota's second foray into PHEVs recently, so I genuinely hope that they add it as an option in future model years, but it's a shame it wasn't available this time. I feel like it will really restrict the practicality of using public charging stations, since even at a 240V station it would still take 4.5 hours for a full charge. Realistically, I suppose if you're at one all day at your place of employment then it's good regardless. But if you're going to just be at a parking lot/garage for an hour, or if lower power charging is the only option, it's almost not even worth it and you may as well drive home in HV mode.
(Note: I don't have the option of charging at work, and there aren't many options for public charging stations near me. The nearest one is a highway rest-stop that has a bunch of Tesla chargers on one side of a huge lot near the building, and a single 240V charger far away near the tractor-trailer parking. Even with an adapter the Tesla chargers, if I understand it correctly, would literally blow up my car because I don't have DC fast charging. No thanks.)
The "Auto EV/HV" button is very self-explanatory: If you press that button, you drive as an EV until the car decides it needs some extra oomph and switches to HV mode. And then when it doesn't, it'll switch back. That's how I normally drive. Excellent work, Toyota, 10/10.
The "EV<->HV, Chg Hold" button is not as intuitive because it FORCES the car between the two modes and holds it there. My big gripe is the second function, which makes it sound like you switch to HV mode just to hold the charge of the EV mode. In reality, if you hold the button it tells the car to use the motor as a generator to charge the batteries. This was explained very poorly at the dealership to me, so I had to figure it out for myself. If you want to burn the extra gas while you're driving to try and charge the batteries back up, go for it? Otherwise, I'd just drive in normal HV mode.
No fog lights? Seriously? Is that still considered a "premium" feature?
A better way of capturing driving/fuel economy data would be grand. See the next two sections.
Typical Driving, Fuel Economy DataAs far as money spent, electric rates in my area are around $0.12/kWh (including all fees, charges, etc.). With the 18.1kWh battery pack, that equates to about $2.17 for a full charge. Less than the cost of a gallon of gas ($2.30-2.50/gal near me) to go 45 miles, or whatever. And that's such an insignificant part of my electric bill, especially considering that I don't empty and recharge it every single day (thanks, COVID?). Unfortunately I live in a rental, and can't have too many nice things. But if you have solar panels, wind power, or an absolutely electric connection with Zeus, well, it's basically free miles. And if you can recharge at work, it is literally free miles (for you, sort of). Also, imagine the money you're saving on not having engine wear. When do I get an oil change, anyway?
(EDIT: Please get regularly scheduled service and maintenance. Watch the video I linked at the top.)
Anyway, for those not familiar, the dashboard looks something like this. Super intuitive, gives you great information, please ignore the EV battery being depleted.
Dashboard when the car is on.
Dashboard when you turn the car off.
So from that screen, I compiled a bunch of information (not consistently, mind you), and wanted to share that performance data.
EDIT: Something important to note with EV mode is that by having the fan/air conditioning on, even with ECO heat/cool is that it will reduce your estimated EV miles on the counter by one or two. If you just turn the A/C off, the fan icon disappears and you'll typically get an extra mile. It's not much, but if your goal is to maximize EV driving, every bit helps. My running average, as you can see from some pictures, is 2.9mi/kWh. With an ~18kWh battery, that math works out to a suggested 52.2 miles of EV driving, but I'm sure I really am losing a few miles between climate control and idle time while driving.
Context: My typical commute to work is about 39-40 miles one way, and the coffee shop is in the path of my normal commute so it doesn't add anything substantial, maybe like 200 feet of driving. Because of this commute, I pretty much burn through my battery on my way down, maybe I have a little left to start my drive home.
EDITED 10 Sept, 2020 to include new data/better charts. Sorry that this is a chart for ants.
Added a few more lines of data.
Don't ask why the EV ratio bar is so big, I have no idea what's happening in Excel. Changed this so that EV ratio is a bar associated with each drive (as it should have been) and total economy is a set of lines.
Why on God's Green Earth Would I Represent Data This Way?Because the the infotainment display doesn't save the information in a helpful/useful way. You've probably noticed that absolutely enormous jump in the last two data points. That's because in trying to use this awful system during my a recent drive, I basically erased my MPG and reset the counter. What this did was save the total economy for a "trip" and then start tracking it from scratch. At the time, I was driving in HV mode, and when I parked at home it was at something like 53MPG (jumping from 0 all the way up into the 60s and then back down).
What was interesting was when I did a short, all EV drive the next day, which meant I got "99MPG" (I wasn't using gas, so...) which just brought the average way up across so few miles. I'm sure this will start to drop once I do a few longer drives that drain the battery or switch into HV mode. I'm not sure if there's a recommended frequency at which you "update" your fuel economy history, but maybe I'll play around with it more in the future.
Well that isn't helpful.
What the heck am I even looking at? What does the placement of those E's mean??
I rest my case.
Whatever. You get the idea. The car is awesome.
So What's The Big Bad?It's the fuel tank.
I believe that the Prime suffers from the same fuel tank issue as the recent year Hybrids (i.e., cannot completely fill the tank). I drove the car down to basically nothing left in the tank (gauge on E, "3 Miles" left on display), and then refilled it and could only fill up to 11.7 gallons, when the car has a 14.5 gallon tank. Based on the efficiency of the car, 3 miles left would literally be running on fumes left in the tank, when in reality I had a little under 3 gallons left. It isn't the worst thing in the world, but because of the sensor being tied to the gauge and the mileage counter, if I hit 0 and keep driving I have absolutely no way of knowing when I'm gonna run out. I believe I read somewhere that a guy drove his Hybrid for another 120 miles after hitting "0 miles."
Here's my proof that I \"emptied\" the vehicle as much as possible. Yes, I did this on purpose.
Here's after refueling.
And here's my receipt from my only visit to a gas pump this month, which has a lower number than I've seen since my childhood for a \"full tank\" fill up of an SUV.
tl;drLet them work out manufacturing kinks, fix the gas tank issue (if that's a huge deal to you), and finalize the charging to at least have the bigger charger on both models (ideally add Level 3), and GET ONE.
If you need me, I'll be driving around silently.
EDIT: Here's a neat thing. When I bought the car and charged it for the first time, I had 33 EV miles. It crept up to 40 after a week, and has slowly crept up even more, and I was recently greeted with this when starting up. (Edited again because it GOT BETTER.)
Not too shabby, considering the battery is rated for 42 EV miles. Also, my mi/kWh finally bumped from 2.9 to 3.
BonusHere's me with the Explorer, parked right next to the Prime. Sorry for the garbage quality, not sure what was up with my mom's phone (she was there to sign over the Explorer). Had a grand total of 179,188 miles, and was still going pretty strong minus some oil leaking and a questionable startup every now and then.
Would you believe that this thing was in a fender bender that chewed up the front bumper and messed up the hood? The dealership didn't either. But CarFax is good at what they do.
Goodbye, old friend. :(
|Player||Position||Signing Type||Contract Details|
|Bud Dupree||EDGE||Franchise Tag||1 year, $15.82 million|
|TJ Watt||EDGE||5th-Year Option||~$10 million (2021)|
|Matt Feiler||OT||RFA Tender||1 year, $3.26 million|
|Mike Hilton||CB||RFA Tender||1 year, $3.26 million|
|Zach Banner||OT||UFA Signing||1 year, $1.75 million|
|Jordan Dangerfield||SAF||UFA Signing||1 year, $825k|
|Kameron Canaday||LS||UFA Signing||2 years, $2.425 million|
|Player||Position||New Team||Contract Details|
|Javon Hargrave||IDL||Philadelphia Eagles||3 years, $39 million|
|BJ Finney||IOL||Seattle Seahawks||2 years, $8 million|
|Sean Davis||SAF||Washington Redskins||1 year, $4 million|
|Artie Burns||CB||Chicago Bears||1 year, $1 million|
|Tyler Matakevich||LB||Buffalo Bills||2 years, $7 million|
|Nick Vannett||TE||Denver Broncos||2 years, $5.7 million|
|Player||Position||Old Team||Contract Details|
|Eric Ebron||TE||Indianapolis Colts||2 years, $12 million|
|Derek Watt||FB||Los Angeles Chargers||3 years, $9.75 million|
|Stefen Wisniewski||IOL||Kansas City Chiefs||2 years, $2.85 million|
|Chris Wormley||IDL||Baltimore Ravens||Acquired via Trade|
|Curtis Riley||SAF||Oakland Raiders||TBD|
|Tyree Kinnel||SAF||XFL||1 year, $610k|
|Player||Position||New Team||Contract Details|
|Anthony Chickillo||EDGE||New Orleans Saints||1 year, $1 million|
|Roosevelt Nix||FB||Indianapolis Colts||1 year, $615k|
|2||49||Chase Claypool||WR||Notre Dame|
|4||124||Anthony McFarland Jr.||RB||Maryland|
|6||198||Antoine Brooks Jr.||SAF||Maryland|
There was recently a post from u/jean-claude_vandamme. You can tell he utilized every one of his 47 chromosomes to write it because it is pretty retarded and lacks any real point. His DD is questionable and he has absolutely 0 skin in the game. Here is the article, if you want to leave dumber, take a look.submitted by dhsmatt2 to wallstreetbets [link] [comments]
Van Dam Making a move
First of all- In summary, he claimed that a handful of us own a massive portion of the outstanding shares, he claimed there have been dilutive offerings and he claimed that the run up was almost certainly because of this forum. There were also claims that small purchases will move the price of the stock drastically.
I would advise against going short for the following reasons:
some transactions are more than 30K dollars
Let Website traffic also be an indication of the growing pains they will see.
Sorry it took so long to respond, I tripped over a money stack today and had to go to the doctor. You can go full retard and trust a guy that gets his due diligence from pornhub or you can trust someone that has been through the big drop and made millions, your call.
IQ Option basically is a marvelous place for a start, because this particular broker is able to offer the lowest amount of minimum deposits across the entire business. This fact has earned a good name to this broker and attracted lots of people, because you are able to control your investment up to the smallest amounts. IQ Option USA. Unfortunately, IQ Option is not available to traders in the United States. The broker is available in 178 countries around the world, but the United States has stricter restrictions and regulations, meaning American traders cannot use the broker. IQ Option USA exists as a division but does not accept traders from the United States of America. IQ Option operates during the working time of the major stock exchanges on weekdays from 09:00 to 23:00. IQ Option Europe Ltd is regulated by CySEC and has its headquarters in Limassol, Cyprus. Its website is available in both English and Russian. No, IQ Option does not accept traders from the USA. IQ Option is not one of the regulated binary options brokers by the CFTC and is not compliant with US regulations. For that reason, the United States is one of IQ Option's restricted countries, despite their reputation as one of the top binary options brokers in the world. Although IQ Option USA is a division of the company, it does not accept traders from the USA. The firm operates during the trading times of major stock exchanges, i.e. from 09:00 to 23:00 on weekdays. IQ Option Europe Ltd is headquartered in Limassol, Cyprus and is regulated. The website is available in many languages.
[index]          
Best binary options trading brokers located in usa for usa legal traders 2018 🔴Want to learn how to trade properly go here: http://bit.ly/2R8D01Z Are you loo... Welcome to Adnan Trading Tips. In this video I will explain how to deposit and withdraw money from IQ option account and also i will explain why iq option bl... IQ Options -https://affiliate.iqoption.com/redir/... Please subscribe and leave a like for more videos. Online trading is a very risky investment/profession.... NUEVA PLATAFORMA 2020: https://deopcionesbinarias.com/robot-opciones-binarias/ Abrir Cuenta DEMO YA http://autobot.10sk.com/advertencia-de-riesgos.html Aquí... The road to success through trading IQ option Best Bot Reviews Iq Option 2020 ,We make videos using this softwhere bot which aims to make it easier for you t...